The largest lake in the Balkans, fish restaurants in Virpazar and a bike ride above the water all the way to the Albanian border.
Cycling through Montenegro, we also wanted to see Lake Skadar. We first catch sight of its surface only on the descent to Virpazar – coming from the sea, you have to cross a high mountain ridge first.
A remarkable landscape
The lake is surrounded by karst mountains that rise several hundred metres above the water. The rocky shores and wetlands are home to many birds and fish. You will find fishing villages, monasteries and mosques on islets, and almost untouched pebble beaches.
Lake Skadar is the largest lake in the Balkan Peninsula. About two thirds of it lies in Montenegro, a third in Albania. Depending on the water level, its area is around 500 km². More than 250 species of birds live here, including pelicans, cormorants and herons.
Treasures of the lake
We arrive in Virpazar at noon and head for the nearest restaurant. We try trout that, we are told, was still swimming in the lake that morning. By the road farmers sell fish, cheese, pršut ham, rakija and wine.
By bike around the lake
From Virpazar we climb along the lake to the east towards Albania. Rain clouds hang over the Albanian side, which makes the scene all the more dramatic. We ride down to a campsite in the village of Murići and stay two nights, eating fish, tasting wine and swimming in the lake.
This part of Montenegro was one of the most interesting for us. If you come here by bike, do not miss the southern road along the lake.
